Article · Wikipedia archive · Last revised Jul 23, 2026

Peshwaj

Peshwaz was a ladies outfit similar to a gown. It was a Bengali ladies outfit, often historically worn by present-day Bangladeshi and West Bengali women in the courts of Dhaka and Murshidabad. One example of a peshwaz dress is seen in Francesco Renaldi's painting, also known as "Muslim Lady Reclining" in present day Dhaka Bangladesh, in the Bengal presidency. Another example of a peshwaz is seen in the Victoria and Albert's Museum, also made of Dhaka Muslin. It consisted of a long floor length structure, fitted bodice and a flared skirt. The sleeves were often slim and elongated. Peshwaz was one of the magnificent costumes of the Mughal and Nawab court ladies. The material was sheer and used fine Dhaka muslins with decorated borders of zari and lacework. Peshwaz suit often considered the ancestor of modern day Anarkali suit which is almost always identical in appearance.

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Peshwaz (peshwaj, paswaj, tilluck, dress) was a ladies outfit similar to a gown. It was a Bengali ladies outfit, often historically worn by present-day Bangladeshi and West Bengali women in the courts of Dhaka and Murshidabad. One example of a peshwaz dress is seen in Francesco Renaldi's painting, also known as "Muslim Lady Reclining" in present day Dhaka Bangladesh, in the Bengal presidency. Another example of a peshwaz is seen in the Victoria and Albert's Museum, also made of Dhaka Muslin. It consisted of a long floor length structure, fitted bodice and a flared skirt. The sleeves were often slim and elongated. Peshwaz was one of the magnificent costumes of the Mughal and Nawab court ladies. The material was sheer and used fine Dhaka muslins with decorated borders of zari and lacework. Peshwaz suit often considered the ancestor of modern day Anarkali suit which is almost always identical in appearance. 12345

Style

The ladies' attire was a combination of Peshwaj, trousers, decorative patka, a cap (edged with lace or brocade), shaluka, angia (bodice) and an odhani to cover the upper part of the body and head. The central opening of Peshwaj was covered by the phentas tucked in at the waist.6 The Mughal Paintings depicted ladies wearing various outfits such as Peshwaj and heavy jewelry.178 It was a famous costume in the 17th century for both Hindu and Muslim ladies.9

Peshwaj was paired with Ekpatta.101112

Mentions

There are eleven types of such coats are mentioned in the Ain-i-Akbari, Abu'l-Fazl ibn Mubarak explained Takauchiyah was a coat with round skirt tied on the right side. And Peshwaj, as an open in front and tied in front. Added to the same there were sixty ornamental stitches for these royal coats.1314

Present

New dress evolved from the Peshwaz called the Anarkali, named after a royal courtesan (although historically Anarkali did not exist).9 The Anarkali is a much-rebranded and appreciated costume for wedding ceremonies in India and Bangladesh and Pakistan. Bhakhtawar Bhutto wore a pink Anarkali dress at her engagement.15 Soha Ali Khan wore Ritu Kumar designed Peshwaz dress at her Mehndi.16 Khushi Kapoor was praised when she donned the dress designed by Manish Malhotra. And Bengali Indian designer Sabyasachi has long standing history with V&A, he custom-designed a massive heavily embroidered gold and red Zardozi wedding Peshwaz specifically to be displayed like piece of historical art.17

See also

See also

References

References

  1. Sodhi, Jiwan (1999). A Study of Bundi School of Painting. Abhinav Publications. pp. 27, 91, 224. ISBN 978-81-7017-347-2.
  2. Goswamy, B. N. (1993). Indian Costumes in the Collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles. D.S. Mehta. p. 156.
  3. Agrawal, C. M. (1993). Dimensions of Indian Womanhood. Shri Almora Book Depot. p. 298. ISBN 978-81-85865-02-7.
  4. Verma, S. P. (2002). Art and Culture: Painting and Perspective. Abhinav Publications. p. 106. ISBN 978-81-7017-405-9.
  5. Sharīf, Jaʻfar (1863). Qanoon-e-Islam: Or the Customs of the Mussulmans of India. Higginbotham.
  6. Goswamy, B. N. (2002). Indian Costumes in the Collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles. D.S. Mehta. p. 42. ISBN 978-81-86980-24-8.
  7. ''Abul Fazl, Ain - i - Akbari, vol.III, Pers . Text, P. 144; Gulbadan Humayun Nama . Tr . ( Bev ) to face page 162; the Painting shows some Mughal ladies wearing Peshwaz; also Abdul Majid Salik Muslim Saqafat ( Urdu ) p . 461; also Shibli ...'' Muslim Women in Medieval India - Page 81books.google.co.in › books Zinat Kausar · 1992
  8. Goswamy, B. N. (2002). Indian Costumes in the Collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles. D.S. Mehta. p. 65. ISBN 978-81-86980-24-8.
  9. ''By the seventeenth century, the peshwaz had become very fashionable in the Muslim and Northern Hindu courts and is seen with similar long gowns in many paintings of the time. The Gita Govinda series of miniatures from the Punjab hills ...'' Page 246, 248 Costumes and Textiles of Royal India - Page 246books.google.co.in › books Ritu Kumar, Cathy Muscat · 2006
  10. Dimensions of Indian womanhood. Almora, U.P. Hills, India: Shri Almora Book Depot. 1993. p. 298. ISBN 978-81-85865-05-8. These ladies also used a veil called ekpatta and the angia or bodice under the gown. Besides, they used the Sarwar and slippers with pointed toes. In some cases the Kurta and Muhurum replaced the Peshwaj and winter brought into use an embroidered shawl
  11. Martin, Robert Montgomery (2012-06-14). The History, Antiquities, Topography, and Statistics of Eastern India: In Relation to Their Geology, Mineralogy, Botany, Agriculture, Commerce, Manufactures, Fine Arts, Population, Religion, Education, Statistics, Etc. Cambridge University Press. pp. 103, 104. ISBN 978-1-108-04652-7.
  12. Crooke, William (1888). Rural and agricultural glossary for the N.W. Provinces and Oudh. Superintendent of Government Printing, Calcutta. p. 91.
  13. Congress, Indian History (1954). Proceedings of the Indian History Congress. p. 212.
  14. Chopra, Pran Nath (1963). Some Aspects of Society & Culture During the Mughal Age (1526-1707). Shiva Lal Agarwala. p. 4.
  15. Rehman, Maliha (2020-11-30). "A closer look at Bakhtawar Bhutto-Zardari's engagement outfit by Nida Azwer". Images. Retrieved 2021-01-19.
  16. "Soha Ali Khan's mehendi ceremony: Bride along with Kareena, Saif look all happy (see inside pics)". www.indiatvnews.com. 2015-01-24. Retrieved 2021-01-19.
  17. "Roundup 2020: Celebs who ruled hearts with Manish Malhotra's ethnic designs". The Siasat Daily. 2020-12-25. Retrieved 2021-01-19.